Healing Waters Poured Over Angry Souls

Yesterday afternoon we left Istanbul for Bursa.  We took a ferry boat across the Sea of Marmara.  It was a beautiful hour and a half excursion.  Upon arrival at the port we took the 30 minute ride by van to Bursa, our home for two nights.  Bursa is a city of nearly three million souls; it is the fourth largest city in Turkey.  It boasts a thriving economy and a venerable history.  It was the first Capital of the Ottoman Empire in the late 13th century.

Dinner last night was at an outside restaurant in the hills above Bursa alongside rolling streams with the fresh smell of woods and nature surrounding us; we feasted on trout and other sumptuous food.  After a brief visit with the owner we rushed along to be in time for the Sufi Dance worship service.  Some photos of which are in yesterday's blog entry.  After worship and tea we made our way to the Kent Hotel in downtown Bursa across the street from the Ulucami Mosque, completed in 1399 and used for worship since that time (more on Ulucami later).

Chuck and Bob at the Silk Market

We spent the morning in the Bursa Kent (Kent means "City") Museum.  There is a significant story to tell of the history of this key city of Turkey.  Its importance to Turkey's past and to Turkey's present is not to be underestimated.  The day also included a few minutes of shopping in the Ipek (silk) Market.  Bursa is the silk producing capital of Turkey.  A magnificent lunch was followed by a visit to the tombs of Ozman Gazi - founding Ottoman Sultan of the new state headquartered in Bursa - and his son Orhan Gazi (the next Sultan).  The tombs are located on an ancient Byzantine monastery site.  We then visited the site of a 600 year old Sycamore tree atop one of the mountains overlooking Bursa, then to the Green Tomb and the Green Mosque of Fatih Sultan Mehmet Türbesi (who died in 1421).  We shared dinner with a wonderful local family in Bursa.  Eyup and his dear wife (a tremendous cook) and their two young sons (ages 9 and 1) made us feel like honored guests in their lovely home; Eyup is an English teacher and they were such gracious hosts, preparing a feast and sharing with us a bit about their lives.

Mahmut, Bryan Bob, Beth, Dave, Saliha,Peter, Gee, Chuck, Eyup and family

Now, my reflection for today: The Ulucami Mosque (The Great Mosque) is the largest Mosque in Bursa.  It has 20 domes and two minarets and was ordered to be built by Sultan Bayezid I; it is a magnificent house of worship near the center of Bursa.  In the center of the Mosque there is a large fountain of crystal clear water, it is bathed by sunlight as it is situated under the one out of the twenty domes that is a sky light; it provides a place for the worshipers to perform ritual ablution as a part of preparation for prayer.  No other Mosque in the world has a water fountain inside - “so why here?” - one might ask.  The story is this: when they were preparing to build the Mosque the property where the fountain is located was owned by a Christian woman, she refused to sell the property to Muslims because she did not want Muslim prayer offered on her property, eventually she died, and a bargain was struck with her children.  The Sultan agreed to honor the wish of their mother that prayers would never be offered on that site if they would agree to sell the property to the Sultan for the Mosque, and so the bargain was struck.  The large and beautiful fountain was placed over the area of the woman’s home.  The ritual prayers of Islam have not been offered on that particular spot in the Mosque.

Worshipers prepare fore prayer in the healing waters at Ulucami Mosque

However, something beautiful has happened, that magnificent marble fountain has made the Ulucami that much more special.  That grand marble fountain is a work of art, but more than that it is a beautifully sacred space.  Small stools surround the fountain, water faucets are situated in front of each stool, and men sit on the stools and perform the ritual bathing in relation to prayer: washing three times hands, mouth, nose, forehead, face, forearms, neck, and feet.  The cooling and refreshing water have a healing affect.

I sat and washed at the fountain - we all did from our group - I prayed there that never again would such bigotry deny the faithful and loving prayers of another.  I gave thanks for my Muslim sisters and brothers who acted with such honor in the face of a request born of such ignorant prejudice.  I marveled at how they have made a site which could have held such negative memory instead a place of redemption and hope.  It is my prayer that the healing and cleansing waters of Ulucami will be a sign and symbol of how faith and love can bring a spring of hope to wash away the unkind behavior of angry and hateful souls.  May each of us live our lives in such a way that we may be a healing fountain each for the other; God’s realm of love is bigger than and beyond all religion, and God’s love is the source of the spring which feeds the fountain of faith, hope, and love.  I pray you find refreshment for the journey today, and always.