Beyond All Expectations

Dave, Chuck, Bob, and Piotr (Peter in other references)
at our last dinner in Istanbul

As the group gathered tonight for our final dinner, there was a clear understanding by each of us that by coming on this Nile Foundation hosted "Dialogue Trip" we had just experienced something extraordinary. This marked our ninth dinner together since first we met at the hotel on that first Friday night of this adventure in Turkey. We have spent eight full days in the hands of the extraordinary Mahmut and Saliha, the husband and wife team who have been our guides, shepherds, and friends for this amazing journey. They have led us with grace and patience and always with a spirit of love and care, and this has been no easy task, to be sure, and yet, they’ve made it look very easy by their great competence and abilities. So first to them, I say tesekkur ederim (thank you)!

Mustafa Kemal Atatürk

As we boarded the bus this morning for our final day in Istanbul there was, I think, a set of mixed emotions, excitement in what we would see today, and a bit of sadness that this is our final day of this extraordinary experience. We would start the day at “Miniaturk” which is a large outdoor park filled with models of significant sites in Turkey from every period, location, and empire of this ancient land. We observed many of these sites firsthand, here replicated in miniature models of intricate and beautiful detail. It is a reminder of the magnificent architecture, art, and devotion which is part of the fabric of Turkish life and culture. Also, there was a museum with a special tribute to Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the father of the modern democratic Turkey established in 1923 after the War for Turkish Independence. Sounding much like our own Thomas Jefferson, Ataturk once said, “We must absolutely be successful at education. This is the only way to salvation of a nation.” He also said, "The new Turkish society won't be a nation of warriors.The new Turkish society will be a nation of new economic activities." This visionary leader set the stage for the modern economic and cultural development of Turkey over the past century, and is beloved in the memory of his people.

Dome Frescoe at Chora Church

Next we made our way to the Edirnekapı neighborhood in the western part of the municipality of Fatih to the Church of Holy Savior in Chora considered to be one of the most beautiful examples of a Byzantine church in Istanbul. In the 16th century, the church was converted into a mosque by the Ottoman rulers, and then became a museum in 1948. The interior of the building is covered with magnificent mosaics and frescoes. The original church was built in the early 5th century and stood outside the walls of Constantinople (the name Chora means “in the country” i.e., outside of the city walls). The intricacy and details of the beautiful artwork in the Church is a tribute to a lost age. After leaving the Chora Museum we made our way past the magnificent entry gates of Istanbul University, Turkey’s oldest institution of higher education, then making our way past the main entrance to the Grand Bazaar we walked the several blocks to our lunch stop.

Interior at Chora Church

Mosaic of Jesus and Mary at Chora Church

The main entry gates of Istanbul University

A street in the Grand Bazaar

On the way to the Spice Market

After lunch we wended our way through the throngs of people to and through the Grand Baaar and the Spice Market. It is impossible to describe the experience of these places, except to say that it felt as though one was stepping into a world in an alternate universe; thick crowds pressed through mazes of narrow, covered streets lined with goods and wares of every conceivable kind. Shop keepers vied for the attention of any customer who might respond, hoping no doubt that he (and in rare case she) - meaning the shop keeper - would find that customer who might make the day’s labor worth it all. For those of you who know how I feel about shopping, I will tell you that I did not run screaming out to find the first tea shop available.  Also, I made a new friend today, a shopkeeper named Murtaza, we had a nice conversation, and may I someday be as proficient with the Turkish language as he is with English.  While I am still not a convert to the shopping experience, I did find the afternoon in these settings fascinating, if mostly on a sociological level (oh, of course don’t misunderstand me, I did try my hand at "bargaining" and found a few good items too!)

Murtaza Avci
Shopkeeper at the Spice Market

Eight full days, and nine glorious evenings later, here are some of the things I know: Turkish people are beautiful, kind, and generous (oh, I’m sure they have their ‘rascals’ like all of us, but I did not see them anywhere).  Turkey is a wondrous country rich in culture and heritage with a proud history; and it is certainly  making its way to a new greatness through its strong democracy, progressive economic work, openness to all people, and positive values to build community, family, and world relationships in life giving ways.  Turkey holds the keys of tremendous promise to helping diverse peoples of the world find common ground by being a voice of friendship and reason to its neighbors east and west. I believe Turkey will continue play a key and ever more important role in helping to set a table for diverse world leaders to gather around and begin to forge new relationships of trust and future development for the good of humankind – it’s a staggering proposal, but I believe that Turkey is up to it! I hope and pray that the wonderful path which Turkey has forged will continue with renewed strength each day. My advice: come to Turkey, and see for yourself what a wonderful people and place this is – Lutfen (Please).  Wherever your journey may take you, may the love and grace of God go with you, always.  Islam (Peace)

A Cotton Castle and Waters of Life

The White Hill of Pamukkale

There were no roosters of Denizli crowing this morning to wake us, but the sounds of a busy city began to break the night silence fairly early.  Today offered a fascinating variety of experiences, from the Travertine mountain at Pamukkale, to lunch at a small restaurant adjacent the University of Denizli, to the quaint shops of every breed and stripe in the downtown area of the bustling city, to a picnic dinner in the bus on the way to the airport, followed by a quick flight on Turkish Airlines back to Istanbul, and a very nice birthday cake with the group this evening, it has been a very full and wonderful day.

Pamukkale, meaning "cotton castle" in Turkish, is a magnificent site to behold. The ancient Greco-Roman and Byzantine city of Hierapolis was built on top of the white "castle." Hierapolis was founded as a thermal spa early in the 2nd century BCE and was used by various empires until the late 14th century CE. It includes a large coliseum, a very large necropolis (cemetery), and a number of other ruins. The hot springs which were turned into baths in the ancient world were a particular draw to the city. Today the ruins provide a fascinating view of an ancient city, and the travertine hills are a place of leisure and play for modern folks (our guide said, “Welcome to ‘Wet and Wild’ Turkey,” when we arrived).

Dave, Chuck, Peter, Gee, Bob, Beth, Mahmut, Saliha, Bryan
At the top of the Coliseum in Hierapolis

As I walked the ancient ruins, especially the coliseum and the very large area committed to the necropolis, I considered how hard life must have been in ancient times.  The dramatic sloping hills of this community would have no doubt provided significant hardship for the slaves who built this large city on their backs and by the sweat of their brow.  What is left, as with all ancient and now defunct cities, is in part a tribute to the unbelievably difficult lives of the common laborers of the day.  It makes me a bit more mindful and appreciative of those who do the hard, dirty, and unpopular work in our societies, and generally do so with a positive and kind spirit.

Entrance to the Necropolis in Hierapolis

The Necropolis is a reminder to all of us of the brevity of life... we are all called to make the most of the days we have.  This is not a morbid thought, nor should we perish such reflections from our minds.  It’s actually healthy, even necessary, to be in touch with the limits of our lives.  By this means we learn to focus, prioritize, and choose wisely what we will do for the good of others with whatever time we are gifted with.

Pamukkale

But the best gift of the day (I’ll see it as a special birthday gift today) was the encounter with the Travertine Springs of Pamukkale.  The vision as one walks along the snow-white stone is surreal, the light blue sparkling pools of spring water absolutely magnificent, and the feel of that 98 degree water as it runs over one’s bare feet was delightful.  We walked the entire length of Pamukkale down the gentle slope of the hill, perhaps a mile or so.  The stone was a porous and non-skid surface under the feet, so there was no sense that one would slip, and the spring water, rich in healing minerals, flow constantly over ones feet while walking.  There were plenty of people around, but with no one paying any attention to me I began to softly sing, to myself, “There Is a Balm in Gilead.”  My slow walk - you couldn’t go too fast - was about an hour; it became a precious time for me of reflection and healing for the soul, in part that’s what this whole trip has been for me: a time to reflect on, think about, and “tune-in” to the Spirit of God in my life.  We all need such times and places in our lives from time to time.

The crystal blue pools of Pamukkale

I am grateful to the Church for supporting my participation in this experience, and the Nile Foundation for their generous and gracious hosting of this trip.  I will have much more to share when I return home.  For now, this will be the final blog entry.  Tomorrow we will see a few more sites, and spend a bit of time at the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Market.  We will share a final dinner with one another as a group.  My eight travel companions have each been magnificent friends, each in her or his own way, on this adventure.  Not a cross word was spoken, or an ill feeling had, what a great group of friends.  I will treasure this experience, and no doubt it will continue to inform, inspire, and guide in many important ways in the years ahead.  I am grateful to all of you who have shared this journey with me through your interest in and reading of this blog.  Our flight returns late on Sunday evening, Monday will be a day of rest and recovery.  Then, forward in faith.  My prayer for each of you is to find peace, and to share that peace with each person you meet on this journey of spirit called life.  -- Masha'Allah (an Arabic phrase that expresses appreciation, joy, praise or thankfulness for an event or person that was just mentioned)

The Poppy Grows Everywhere in Turkey - Beautiful!

A Letter From Ephesus... To Us!

We awoke to the morning sounds of the city of Izmir, the third largest metropolis in Turkey.  Through the open window noises from the street below began to gently waft up through the ninth floor window of the hotel room.  Out the window, just to the left, is the hill on which Alexander the Great used to hunt; to the right, the beautiful Gulf of Izmir; and on the corner, a half block away, in the direction of the Gulf, a Starbucks; a reminder along with the US military base in Izmir that America and Turkey share a strong and abiding connection, while Turkey continues to strengthen its position as the lynchpin of global leadership between East and West.  No one is more suited for this role than Turkey, especially under the leadership of the current popular Prime Minister, Recep Tayyib Erdogan.  He will stand for re-election in about one month and is expected to enjoy a strong win.  He is leading Turkey to serve the region well through its moral, political, and economic leadership.

Serkan - Our Tour Guide

Today we explored the ancient ruins at Ephesus under the able leadership of our guide, Serkan - I think there may be a "letter to us" from the ancient Ephesians, if we pay attention (more on that in a little bit).  Following lunch at an open air buffet restaurant, we would visit the site remembered as the home of Mary the mother of Jesus, and a place they referred to as a “tile shop” (but it was much more), and then we would be on the road for our two-and-a-half hour drive to Denizli - our destination for this evening - where we will share dinner in the home of the Bozan family and also co-hosted by the Uzel family.  Now, a bit about Ephesus:

A two story mausoleum in Ephesus

Dating back to about 10,000 BCE the area where the ancient city of Ephesus was located boasts a beginning in the Neolithic Period.  Before the water receded from the valley, Ephesus was a coastal town and held a place of significant importance for several Empires of the ancient world, serving often as a Capital City of those empires.  Through the Bronze Age, the Hellenistic Period, the Roman Period, the Byzantine Era, and the Turkish Era, Ephesus has held a place of varying importance in Anatolia (Turkey).  It is considered to be a very prominent city in the memory of Christianity: legend, lore, and story tells of Paul living there for a time, also of the Apostle John living there, and even Mary the mother of Jesus as being a nearby resident.  There is, of course, the letter to the Ephesians which reports to being written by Paul to the residents of this ancient city (it is also possible that Paul wrote the letter we call First Corinthians from Ephesus).  But it also seems the ancient city may be "writing us a letter," as well.

The Coliseum in Ephesus - Seating for 24,000

What was most striking to me, as we made our way through these ancient ruins with our guide Serkan, lecturing with historical information along the way, was the immenseness of these stone structures.  Now of course they are bits and pieces, some reconstructed where they had crumbled to the ground after the city was abandoned following the beginning of the Ottoman Empire.  It no long made sense as a major city, there was no longer a port, and Ephesus went the way of many ancient cities.  But it was once magnificent!  Like a major city of today it would have caused its visitors and inhabitants to marvel at its prowess and beauty.  Yet, it did not last; the Jackson Browne song is running through my head, “All good things got to come to an end.”  Also there is the prophet Isaiah who says: “The grass withers, the flower fades; but the word of our God will stand for ever.”  In this is perhaps a letter from Ephesus to all of us...

Chuck and Bryan on the Road to Ephesus

What this trip to Turkey has reminded me is that a city (as well as a mosque, church, synagogue, business, country, or any other “place”) is only truly significant because of the people who inhabit it.  Things can become useless, outdated, and irrelevant… people ought not to be.  Our true significance and importance is not measured by our intellect, our power, our wealth, or any other external “thing.”

Remembered as the home of Mary the mother of Jesus

Our true significance is measured by the good we do, the kindness we show, the grace we offer, the hope we engender, the compassion we give, the generosity exhibited by the actions of our lives, motivated from a loving heart.  This is what will last.  It will be passed from generation to generation, from life to life, from person to person.  Great cities and institutions will come and go over the course of time.  But the love that we leave in the wake of our lives will live forever.  This is to me the "letter from Ephesus" to us, for our time.

Our Kind Hosts for Dinner on Thursday Night

 Our host family tonight showed us this truth again through their warmth and sincere kindnesses to us, “we are all friends,” our host said with a smile, “we believe in the same things: love, kindness, caring for our families and friends, and helping those in need.”  Thank you Necdet… well said, and thanks to each of our dear hosts tonight, along with Necdet was his dear wife Vildan, and their sweet daughters Zeynep, Aleyna, and Kubra, as well as our other sweet hosts Yalqin and Berna.  One of our gifts from the families this evening was a “Rooster of Denizli” – I have a hunch we may awaken at first dawn to their songs, which are said to last longer than any other rooster anywhere, strong rooster lungs I suppose.  So it’s off to sleep to prepare to hear the rooster song in Denizli.  Peace and sweet rest to all who share this journey with me.  From Turkey, goodnight.

A Sweet Gift from a Sweet Country - Turkish Strawberries -
Magnificently Delicious!

A Home Built by Love

By row, L to R
Beth, Bob, Mahmut, Saliha, Peter, Gee, Dave, Chuck

The group in front of Gediz University

We boarded a beautiful Turkish bus today, leaving Bursa at 10:00 AM and arriving in Izmir (long ago known as Smyrna) at around 3:00 PM.  With a steward on the bus to serve tea and snacks, a stop halfway through the ride, and the most comfortable bus that any of us have ever ridden in, it was a joy to make the trip.  The Turkish know how to make bus travel luxurious!  Upon arrival we met our guide, Serkan, and transferred to our spacious Mercedes van for the remainder of the day.  Serkan is a walking encyclopedia of the history of Izmir (but only going back to around 6500 BCE).  What a treat to have him lecture for about two hours as we took our van from place to place today. The Nile Foundation has made this such a comfortable and wonderful trip with every kindness considered.  After checking in to our rooms at the "Otel Marla" a block away from the Gulf of Izmir we loaded up again to head to a newly built Foundation University named Gediz University.  School choices in every level in Turkey consist of government schools and foundation schools, operated by private non-profit foundations.  This school, only two years old is a foundation school.  Read more about it at the following link: Gediz University.  After a tremendous meeting with Vice Rector, Dr. Muhammet Akdis and several other professors and administrators we made our way to the home of the Nas family with whom we would have dinner and visit tonight.

Dave Krepcho visiting with Ali and Gulay Nas, our hosts

The Nas family were - as each of the families with whom we have visited have been - a true delight.  We had the privilege of meeting mother and father as well as son and daughter-in-law, and daughter (one other of their children was unable to be with us).  Each member of the Nas family hosted us with such grace, kindness, and warmth, we were made to feel a part of their family immediately.  What has become increasingly clear on this "Dialogue Trip" is that we share such common values with our new friends in Turkey.  The various loosely affiliated Foundations, with which our own Nile Foundation relates, are committed to the same values which we have come to know as the bedrock of our Nile Foundation: Dialogue, Peace through Understanding, and Mutual Respect, always with a large portion of warmth and affection.  

Ferhat Nas

Each person we have met is interested in building a home of love for the human family, whether it has been the various guides, directors of foundations, family members, educators, or friends - each one has been a person committed to building loving relationships among people.  Imagine a world where every person spent their time and energy working toward better understanding and relationship.  Imagine if we always looked for the very best in each other, and only offered the best of ourselves to each other.  Imagine if we as a human family chose dialogue over conflict.  Imagine if we knew that peace could come through better understanding, and so we committed ourselves to that goal in every relationship.  Imagine such a home built by and for the human community on planet earth, A home built by love.

Ali, Seher, Feyza, and Gulay Nas

The Nas family are in the textile business and have two clothing stores in Izmir.  They have worked hard and done well.  Ferhat works in the business with his parents, his sister Seher is a fashion designer on leave as she is expecting a baby.  Ferhat's wife, Feyza is an artist practicing an ancient craft of hand-painted page frames for books.  This joyous, creative, and loving family, as each family we have met so far  - and every other person in Turkey, for that matter - represent the feel and tenor of the Turkish people: a people who are warm, welcoming, intelligent, engaging, generous, and kind - reaching out to others with a gentle graciousness.  It is my prayer that as we build this home of love together, and continue to learn from each other and share the joy and hope of our common humanity, we will learn to find our vast common ground.  Meeting these wonderful Turkish young adults, and of course their dear parents, I have hope for a better world ahead.  As I look at Ferhat, Feyza, Seher, and our dear younger guides Mahmut and Saliha I am reminded of a wonderful passage from I Timothy 4:12 which reads: "Let no one despise your youth, but set the believers an example in speech and conduct, in love, in faith, in purity."  Timothy was likely Turkish whose father was Greek.  Acts 16:1-2 recounts that Paul first met Timothy at Lystra, Turkey (a nice coincidence, indeed).  As Paul no doubt had such confidence in Timothy, I have confidence in these young adults, and so many others I know, to lead us in the way of Peace... Insha'Allah.

Sunset over the Gulf of Izmir - May 25, 2011

Healing Waters Poured Over Angry Souls

Yesterday afternoon we left Istanbul for Bursa.  We took a ferry boat across the Sea of Marmara.  It was a beautiful hour and a half excursion.  Upon arrival at the port we took the 30 minute ride by van to Bursa, our home for two nights.  Bursa is a city of nearly three million souls; it is the fourth largest city in Turkey.  It boasts a thriving economy and a venerable history.  It was the first Capital of the Ottoman Empire in the late 13th century.

Dinner last night was at an outside restaurant in the hills above Bursa alongside rolling streams with the fresh smell of woods and nature surrounding us; we feasted on trout and other sumptuous food.  After a brief visit with the owner we rushed along to be in time for the Sufi Dance worship service.  Some photos of which are in yesterday's blog entry.  After worship and tea we made our way to the Kent Hotel in downtown Bursa across the street from the Ulucami Mosque, completed in 1399 and used for worship since that time (more on Ulucami later).

Chuck and Bob at the Silk Market

We spent the morning in the Bursa Kent (Kent means "City") Museum.  There is a significant story to tell of the history of this key city of Turkey.  Its importance to Turkey's past and to Turkey's present is not to be underestimated.  The day also included a few minutes of shopping in the Ipek (silk) Market.  Bursa is the silk producing capital of Turkey.  A magnificent lunch was followed by a visit to the tombs of Ozman Gazi - founding Ottoman Sultan of the new state headquartered in Bursa - and his son Orhan Gazi (the next Sultan).  The tombs are located on an ancient Byzantine monastery site.  We then visited the site of a 600 year old Sycamore tree atop one of the mountains overlooking Bursa, then to the Green Tomb and the Green Mosque of Fatih Sultan Mehmet Türbesi (who died in 1421).  We shared dinner with a wonderful local family in Bursa.  Eyup and his dear wife (a tremendous cook) and their two young sons (ages 9 and 1) made us feel like honored guests in their lovely home; Eyup is an English teacher and they were such gracious hosts, preparing a feast and sharing with us a bit about their lives.

Mahmut, Bryan Bob, Beth, Dave, Saliha,Peter, Gee, Chuck, Eyup and family

Now, my reflection for today: The Ulucami Mosque (The Great Mosque) is the largest Mosque in Bursa.  It has 20 domes and two minarets and was ordered to be built by Sultan Bayezid I; it is a magnificent house of worship near the center of Bursa.  In the center of the Mosque there is a large fountain of crystal clear water, it is bathed by sunlight as it is situated under the one out of the twenty domes that is a sky light; it provides a place for the worshipers to perform ritual ablution as a part of preparation for prayer.  No other Mosque in the world has a water fountain inside - “so why here?” - one might ask.  The story is this: when they were preparing to build the Mosque the property where the fountain is located was owned by a Christian woman, she refused to sell the property to Muslims because she did not want Muslim prayer offered on her property, eventually she died, and a bargain was struck with her children.  The Sultan agreed to honor the wish of their mother that prayers would never be offered on that site if they would agree to sell the property to the Sultan for the Mosque, and so the bargain was struck.  The large and beautiful fountain was placed over the area of the woman’s home.  The ritual prayers of Islam have not been offered on that particular spot in the Mosque.

Worshipers prepare fore prayer in the healing waters at Ulucami Mosque

However, something beautiful has happened, that magnificent marble fountain has made the Ulucami that much more special.  That grand marble fountain is a work of art, but more than that it is a beautifully sacred space.  Small stools surround the fountain, water faucets are situated in front of each stool, and men sit on the stools and perform the ritual bathing in relation to prayer: washing three times hands, mouth, nose, forehead, face, forearms, neck, and feet.  The cooling and refreshing water have a healing affect.

I sat and washed at the fountain - we all did from our group - I prayed there that never again would such bigotry deny the faithful and loving prayers of another.  I gave thanks for my Muslim sisters and brothers who acted with such honor in the face of a request born of such ignorant prejudice.  I marveled at how they have made a site which could have held such negative memory instead a place of redemption and hope.  It is my prayer that the healing and cleansing waters of Ulucami will be a sign and symbol of how faith and love can bring a spring of hope to wash away the unkind behavior of angry and hateful souls.  May each of us live our lives in such a way that we may be a healing fountain each for the other; God’s realm of love is bigger than and beyond all religion, and God’s love is the source of the spring which feeds the fountain of faith, hope, and love.  I pray you find refreshment for the journey today, and always.

It Gives Me Pause...

It is past 1 AM in Turkey now.  I have spent the last hour trying to reach my blog-site, and nearly unable to do so.  A kind man at the front desk of the hotel assisted me.  My login screen turn into Turkish right before my eyes, a language I cannot begin to understand.  It would not let me sign in and so, there I was, unable to move through the internet at all.  It has been an exceptionally long day - they all have been so on this trip - but so very rich, each day with wonderful experiences.  My commitment to chronicle pieces of the trip seemed a simple concept, however, there was much I had not considered: the time change and the exceptionally long and tiring days, very weak internet connections in hotel rooms, my computer and the internet suddenly thinking that I speak Turkish, other factors that are simply uncontrollable.  Isn't this a lesson in life, we never can really plan for it all, nor are we often in control.  So, I will do my best to recount a few things from today, and a bit more about yesterday...

The 500 Year Jewish Museum was fascinating, it told the story of the Ottoman Sulatn opening Turkey's borders to the Jews in the 1400's when they were being driven out of Spain and other places in Europe - a truly inspiring story of gracious welcome!  The Military Museum was another reminder to me that we as humans must find better ways to solve our differences and resolve our conflicts, but the concert by the traditional music band of the ancient army was inspiring and beautiful.  Dinner in the home of dear new friends, their gracious hospitality, the arrival of the Mayor of the community in Istanbul where we were dining, and our discussions about Turkish / American relations was inspirational and very hopeful, the Turkish people see the strengthening relationship between our two countries as so very important, so do we.  Now, today...

We started the day at the relief organization, "Kimse Yok Mu" which translates, "Is there anybody there?"  This magnificent organization answers with 80 staff members and 200,000 volunteers in 67 different countries where they provide every kind of aid imaginable with, "yes, we are here!"  They are the third largest relief organization in Turkey, and a blessing to the tens of thousands they serve.  Dave Krepcho of Second Harvest Food Bank, along with the rest of us, was inspired by their wonderful organization of care.

So much happened today, and one great highlight came at days end, when we were taken to a worship service of Sufi Dance (Sufi Dance is a great method often know as Whirling Dervish Dancing).  It was magnificently beautiful and inspiring, I truly worshiped as they danced... such beauty!

The worshipers prepare to dance following prayer preparations

The worshipers dance, one hand lifted to Allah (God) one hand reaching out to humanity in love

"Tea is Served" ...always!

And of course, after worship, tea - in fact, after anything, tea - it is the charming and delightful tradition of the Turkish people to pause for tea often during the day.  It is served in clear crystal fluted glasses with sugar and is quickly refilled until you can take no more.  It is a sign of hospitality, grace, and civility.  The kind gentleman in the picture to the left, dressed in a traditional garb, served us with such kindness and decorum.

We have been treated like visiting dignitaries with such graciousness.  The Turkish people - and I have met many by now, both by intention, and by accident - are a kind and gracious people.  A reminder to each of us of the true heart of Islam.  What an honor to be among such good and gracious friends.  We have much to learn from our friends in Turkey.  It is a new day in this country: progressive, hopeful, prosperous, and energized.  What a joy to see and experience these wonderful people and their beautiful homeland.

The Grand Palace and the Lone Soldier

 It was a day rich with experiences in Istanbul.  First stop: the Dolmabahce Sarayi (Palace).  As the largest palace in Istanbul it housed the last of the Sultans (six of them to be precise) from 1856 to 1922, and served as the seat of the government during that period.  This 485,000 square foot palace is the definition of opulence.  Crystal chandeliers and staircases, gold leaf almost everywhere that it could be affixed to something, and rich furnishings and appointments dazzle the eye at every turn; the main hall is home to the second largest chandelier in the world, it simply boggles the mind.  Now a museum it serves as a reminder of how quickly things move from usefulness to relic.  "Things" I am saying, not people.  In stark relief to this grand palace was the image of a lone soldier that caught my eye as we waited for entrance to the palace.  He was making his way around the outer grounds, no doubt walking his "beat."  In the traditional uniform of the palace guards employed in the service of the Sultan when the palace was the bustling center of earthly power for the Ottoman Empire, now this guard roams quietly through the grounds of a museum.  There is no one here to guard, nothing to defend against (save perhaps the occasional obnoxious tourist), no mission really - other than to serve as part of the environment.  His rounds displayed a rather casual gait without much purpose or attentiveness.  It is a symbol for me of how often we may find ourselves guarding that which doesn't really have much value.  Yes, the Dolmabahce Sarayi is filled with "valuable" things (at least by the monetary standards of the world) but it does not possess the heart and soul and life beat of important, critical work.  The image of this is a call for each one of us to always seek to spend our precious, and all too brief life energies on that which can bring life and hope and peace to others.  Beware of hollow commitments to what is not of real value; may our journeys be purposeful, our steps be marked by the definition of the truly important work that is ours today: to treat others with the kindness, respect, and love with which we would want to be treated.

Our next stop was the 500 Year Jewish Museum, then the Military Museum, and finally a wonderful dinner with a business leader and a Mayor of Istanbul (pictured right) in the home of the business leader.  More on that remarkable dinner tomorrow.  It was indeed a rich and rewarding day, the journey building awareness and new friendships which give definition and purpose to life.  Peace to all.