Fire, Justice, Enduring Faith... Hope

Mr. Necdet Agir

On the peninsula which gently juts out into the Marmara Sea overlooking the entrance to the Bosphorus Strait the Topkapi Palace prominently adorns the hilltop.  In its shadow sits the Hagia Sophia and just beyond that the Blue Mosque.  Each of these unique places hold a rich and intriguing history of a land that has been the object of both fascination and conquest by Sultans, Kings, and Emperors alike.  From Constantine, to the Orthodox Patriarchs, to the powerful Ottomans this small piece of real estate has been the center of governments and religion, culture and commerce for nearly 17 centuries.  Our day was spent traversing craggy stone walks through lush gardens and ancient architecture; and in this journey today some jewels shimmered.  The shimmering was both from some of the amazing collections rich with sparkling gems held by the Turkish government and on display at the Topkapi Palace and more importantly jewels shimmered from lessons learned in today’s sojourn.  It is on the latter that I will focus for now.

Entrance Topkapi Palace

Golden Ball of Fire

We were blessed to have Ministry of Culture and Tourism's Necdet Agir as our guide and teacher.  He possesses a sage spirit, a keen mind, and an affable good humored disposition.  We learned many things under his tutelage today.  Among the jewels today this: at the entrance to Topkapi Palace, before you go through the massive palace doors and move from the public grounds surrounding the Palace to its several inner sanctums, there hangs an object over the door that looks like it might be a golden egg or a golden tear drop.  One might casually dismiss it as an object of architectural artistry and simple beauty, but one would be wrong to do so.  This golden object represents a ball of fire and it is there for only one purpose, to serve as a reminder to the Sultan of his human frailty.  Imagine, the most powerful man in the world reminded daily in his comings and goings of his frail human soul.  It is there to remind the Sultan of his high calling to live a life of compassion, kindness, and concern for his people.  It is there to remind him to always seek their best interests, to see to their earthly and spiritual needs, to extend the reach of the power of his kingdom around them as a shroud of protection and care, lest he ever forget.  For if the Sultan were to forget his high calling to the care of his people it would surely spell the destruction of his immortal soul.  This ball of fire is the fire of eternal destruction which a careless monarch, interested only in his own well-being, comfort, and wealth would surely suffer.  Imagine such a stark warning adorning the homes of those who lead nations today.  Would it perhaps remind them of the eternal value of seeking good for others above yourself?

A Sign of Justice

Another jewel of Topkapi: above the door opposite the "Private Audience Hall and Chamber of Petitions" there is a sign.  This sign would be viewed by the Sultan each time he steps out on the porch of the Audience Hall to greet someone coming to seek his help or aid.  It is a quotation from the Qur'an which invokes the monarch to always act with justice and fairness in every matter.  In this brief verse the whole of this leader's personal mission and calling is summed up.  It reminds me of the Hebrew Scripture which calls us to "...do justice, love kindness, and walk humbly with God."  It is also an encouragement for us to always see the signs, despite whatever circumstances we may face, that we are called to this noble understanding in all of our dealings.  We are called to treat one another with respect, dignity, concern for the well-being of the other, and kindness.  If world leaders and those entrusted with positions of responsibility lived this way each day, what a better world we would share.  Just as important is that each of us live our lives in this understanding; may each of us see the signs and remember our high calling as we meet along the journey with others.

The Blue Mosque seen from the window of Hagia Sophia

One final jewel: from an upstairs window of the Hagia Sophia (Greek meaning "Holy Wisdom; Turkish: Aya Sofya) there is a magnificent view of the Blue Mosque.  It is framed between the buildings and domes of the ancient Church, become Mosque, become historical museum.  Though there is some dispute as to when the first portion of the Church was built it is certain that it was dedicated in 360 CE and served as the Basilica Church of the Byzantine Empire when Istanbul was known as Constantinople.  The current massive Basilica was built by Emperor Justinian I and is the third Church structure on this site; it took 30 years to build (dedicated in 562 CE).  In 1453 Sultan Mehmed II laid siege to Constantinople and converted Hagia Sophia Basilica into the Ayasofya Mosque.  The Church was dilapidated, but the monarch made it clear that the elaborate mosaics of the old Church were not to be destroyed, rather simply plastered over.

Today many of these magnificent gold leafed mosaics have been carefully uncovered by the Turkish Ministry of Antiquities in what is since 1935 a museum.  Hagia Sophia / Ayasofya a house of two worlds of worship ever intertwined and seeking a place in a complex world.  The Sultan Ahmed Mosque known as the Blue Mosque because of the beautiful turquoise tiles that give it an amazing blue radiance remains, since 1616 CE, an active house of worship.  Side by side and intermingled these worlds exist - today in Turkey - in peace and friendship.  A model for a world which we must all help to forge, bringing a light of kind relationship which will dispel all darkness and fear.  In these ancient symbols, woven together in the peacefulness of modern Turkey, each one respected and valued, I find hope for our world.  May each of us find peace in our shared journey on this small and fragile planet that we all call "home."

Dome of the Blue Mosque

Mosaic of Mary and Jesus-Hagia Sophia

Breaking Bread and A Call to Prayer

As with every journey this one began with those seemingly endless and frenetic preparations.  Lists upon lists collide with time and energy and all of it filtered through an equation of what “must” be done now compared and contrasted to what “can wait” until my return.  We don’t always get it right, sometimes “leaving undone those things which we ought to have done” as the old Episcopal liturgy would say.  But eventually, at an appointed hour advisable to actually getting to where you have said you’re going – the journey begins, and you must go.  So it is with the beginning of every journey: we prepare as best we are able, then we set out…

Often the “getting there” (wherever “there” might be) and the “getting home” are seen as ancillary; aren’t they just the background noise before and after the real journey?  Or, are these legs of any journey a key part of the experience?  In my life the “getting there” and “getting home” have always been significant, in part, because these portions of the journey can often provide time for some internal work – focus, consideration, thought, and perhaps study.  In the case of this trip the “getting there” – from leaving my home in Central Florida to setting down my bags in the hotel room in Istanbul – was 20 hours (the remarkable efficiency of travel in our modern world is an amazing thing, indeed, but that conversation will have to happen at another time).  It included some walking, some eating, some reading, some talking, some media related diversions, and a lot of travel – a car, two planes, and a bus – it also provided for a little shut-eye here and there along the way.  It seems that we all know this: getting there and getting home are always a vital part of the journey in all of life… in that, I tried to pay special attention to that part of this journey.  It made the “getting here” a truly enjoyable enterprise.

Mahmut, Bob, and Beth

Our hotel is in the heart of the old city: charming, bustling, active with much construction underway everywhere, Turkey’s booming economy visible in every nook and cranny.  We met at 7 PM in the hotel lobby, seven of us (Bob, Beth, Peter, Gee, Dave, Chuck, Bryan), plus our two guides (Mrs. Saliha and Mr. Mahmut (wife and husband who also live in Central Florida but are both natives of Turkey), our bus driver (whose name I will learn tomorrow) and made our way through the crowded roads of our “new neighborhood” (at least for a few days) to a delightful restaurant not too far away.  It was far enough off the beaten path that no tourist casually looking for a place to eat would be there, it looked and felt rich in local tradition and connection.  So there we were, nine of us, mostly strangers to each other; but with a gentle spirited round the table conversation, which flowed effortlessly, we began this part of our journey together, it happened most simply and without fanfare in the breaking of the bread (Turkish Lavash Bread to be precise), and it reminded me as I watched and listened and experienced these moments when we began to come together as a small community of fellow travelers that breaking bread is always a sacred experience.  In this simple act, our journey together began.

Peter and Gee

After supper we returned to our hotel, and as I began to settle in to write, a soft and compelling sound began to waft through my open window; the last call to prayer for the day was carried through the lyrical song of the Azan.  It builds slowly and finally mounts to a crescendo as it echoes from the minarets of Mosques all over the city, inspiring, beautiful, and a bit haunting.  I paused for my own time of prayer.  I remembered family and friends, and needs and situations – of persons and of the world – and my new friends here and my hope and prayer, that I will learn here lessons and insights which will help me to be a better sojourner for peace, compassion, and justice in my own life.  And so, the journey has truly begun.

To Turkey With Love

The Blue Mosque, Istanbul

In a few days it will be my privilege to embark on one of those "journeys of a lifetime."  Hosted and arranged by The Nile Foundation in Orlando, FL the intention of this trip is to build better relationships between various community, civic, educational, and religious leaders from both Turkey and the United States.

An added joy is that I will be in the company of one of my dearest friends, the Rev. Chuck Fiandaca, and also a new friend, Mr. Dave Krepcho, President & CEO of the Second Harvest Food Bank.  Along with others we will be privileged to travel throughout Turkey under our intelligent and well equipped guides from the Nile Foundation.

It is especially gratifying to have the strong support of my Church community at First Congregational Church of Winter Park, and of course of my wife Mickey and my dad, Jim who will be keeping the home fires burning.  As with every "journey of spirit" there is an emotional and intellectual preparation, along with the more pedestrian tasks such as packing, etc.  One of the ways I am preparing is through learning more about the Azan or Adhan, the Islamic call to prayer, which is an integral part of the Muslim faith.  The Muslim is called to prayer five times a day.

The call to prayer is heard at dawn, at the midday, about the middle of the afternoon, just after sunset, and at night fall about two hours after sunset. It’s the first thing recited in the ears of a newborn baby and is often the first thing said upon entry into a new home.  It rings out in mosques, Islamic schools, homes, and on the street in Muslim communities and is one of the most lyrical and inspiring prayers for Muslims.  As I write this entry I am listening to the Azan or Adhan at this site: Most Beautiful Azan.  To read some translations Wikipedia offers this: Translations of Azan.

As a Christian I'm looking very much forward to experiencing this call to prayer throughout the day.  My intent will be to allow myself to be called to prayer in these times, using a variety of prayers from Islamic, Jewish, and Christian traditions.  For me, prayer is most importantly an invitation to open ourselves to the Spirit of God's love in our lives, and to be prepared to more fully and gently share that love with others in humility and compassion.  What a magnificent journey this will be.  I welcome you to follow this journal and share your insights and thoughts.  May each of our journeys be rich with peace, kindness, and hope.